Bricklaying & Stonework
Quality Brickwork, Expert Stonemasonry, Built to Last
Professional bricklaying and stonework covers everything from new builds and extensions to repointing, brick repairs, and stone restoration. Whether you need a garden wall, chimney repair, full house repoint, or careful restoration of period stonework, we combine traditional craftsmanship with modern building standards. Across the Cotswolds and Gloucester, we provide comprehensive brickwork and masonry services for both modern properties and heritage buildings — because quality brickwork and stonework are the backbone of any lasting structure.
Why Choose Professional Bricklaying & Stonework?
Brickwork and stonework are highly skilled trades — getting it right first time prevents costly repairs down the line. Professional workmanship ensures:
✅ Structural integrity — proper bonding, correct mortar mixes, and sound foundations prevent movement and cracking
✅ Weather resistance — correctly pointed and detailed brickwork sheds water and resists frost damage for decades
✅ Aesthetic quality — straight courses, consistent joints, and clean finishes enhance your property's appearance
✅ Heritage compliance — appropriate materials (lime mortar for period properties) protect historic fabric and meet conservation requirements
✅ Long-term durability — quality brickwork lasts 100+ years; poor workmanship can fail within 10–20 years
✅ Value protection — well-maintained brickwork and stonework add to property value; damaged or poorly repointed work reduces it
Whether you're building a new extension in the Cotswolds, repairing a chimney stack near Chipping Norton or Cirencester, or repointing a period property in Gloucester, professional bricklaying and stonework protects your investment and enhances your home's character.
Our Bricklaying & Stonework Services
As a local Cotswolds builder and bricklayer, we handle all aspects of brickwork and masonry with professional-grade materials and techniques:
1. Repointing (Brick & Stone)
Repointing replaces deteriorated mortar joints to restore weather resistance and structural stability. It's one of the most common maintenance tasks for brick and stone buildings.
When repointing is needed:
Mortar is crumbling, falling out, or can be easily scraped away with a knife
Water penetration through walls (damp patches inside, especially after rain)
Vegetation growing in joints (moss, lichens, weeds)
Joints are cracked or have gaps
Property is over 50 years old and has never been repointed
Cement mortar was incorrectly used on a period property (needs removal and replacement with lime)
Our repointing process:
Rake out old mortar to a depth of 15–25mm (or until sound mortar is reached) using specialist tools — never use angle grinders as they damage brick edges
Clean joints thoroughly — remove all dust and debris with brushes or low-pressure air
Dampen joints before applying new mortar (prevents dry bricks sucking moisture from mortar too quickly)
Apply new mortar in layers, pressing firmly into joints with a pointing trowel
Finish to match existing — weathered, flush, bucket handle, or struck finishes depending on original stylegreensbrickwork
Cure properly — keep mortar damp for several days (especially lime mortar) to prevent rapid drying and cracking
Mortar types we use:
Lime mortar (NHL 3.5 or NHL 5) — for period properties (pre-1919), soft bricks, and stone walls. Breathable, flexible, and compatible with historic fabric
Cement-lime-sand mortar (1:1:6 or 1:2:9) — for modern cavity-wall brickwork (post-1950) with hard machine-made bricks
Cement-sand mortar (1:4 or 1:5) — for engineering brickwork, copings, chimneys, and below-DPC work where high strength and low permeability are needed
Why mortar choice matters: Using cement mortar on a period property traps moisture inside the wall, causing bricks or stone to spall and crumble. Lime mortar is softer and more permeable, allowing walls to "breathe" and moisture to escape — essential for pre-1919 buildings.
2. Brick Repairs & Replacement
Damaged or deteriorated bricks need careful repair or replacement to maintain structural integrity and appearance:
Common brick repairs:
Spalled or cracked bricks — caused by frost damage, moisture trapped by cement pointing, or impact damage
Salt efflorescence — white crystalline deposits indicating moisture movement through brickwork
Brick replacement (indent repairs) — carefully remove damaged brick and replace with matching new or reclaimed brick
Structural repairs — install steel reinforcement (helical bars, lintels) for cracked or moving walls
Damp proof course installation — inject or install new DPC to prevent rising damp
Our process:
Carefully cut out damaged bricks using specialist saws (minimises disturbance to surrounding brickwork)
Clean out mortar from adjacent bricks
Bed new brick in appropriate mortar (lime or cement, matching existing)
Point to match surrounding joints
Allow proper curing time before exposing to weather
3. Stone Repairs & Restoration
Natural stone requires specialist knowledge to repair correctly — especially on listed buildings or properties in conservation areas:
Stone repair services:
Indent repairs — replace damaged stone sections with matching new stone (limestone, sandstone, Cotswold stone, granite)
Ashlar repairs — restore dressed stone features (window surrounds, doorways, quoins, string courses)
Rubble walling repairs — rebuild collapsed or leaning sections of stone walls
Carved stone repairs — restore decorative stonework, corbels, finials, and carved details
Copings and cills — replace damaged window cills, door thresholds, and wall copings
Masonry conservation — careful cleaning and consolidation of historic stonework without damaging the surface
Our approach:
Assess stone type and condition (limestone, sandstone, granite, Cotswold stone)
Source matching stone from local quarries or reclaimed suppliers
Use traditional lime mortars compatible with historic fabric
Minimise intervention — repair rather than replace wherever possible
Follow conservation best practices for listed buildings and heritage properties
4. New Brickwork & Stonework
From garden walls to full new builds, we construct all types of brick and stone structures:
New build services:
Garden walls — single-skin or double-skin, brick or stone, with appropriate foundations and copings
Extensions — full brickwork for single or two-storey extensions, matching existing property
Chimney stacks — new builds or rebuilds, with appropriate flue liners and cowls
Pillars and gateways — decorative brick or stone pillars for driveways and entrances
Feature walls — internal or external feature brickwork, stone cladding, or decorative brickwork patterns
Retaining walls — structural brick or stone walls for holding back soil, with proper drainage and reinforcement
Our process:
Design and specify appropriate foundations (strip footings, trench fill, or raft foundations depending on ground conditions)
Lay out brickwork or stonework to correct levels and alignments
Build with proper bonding patterns (stretcher bond, English bond, Flemish bond, or random rubble for stone)
Install wall ties, damp proof courses, and cavity trays as required
Finish with appropriate copings, cappings, or render
5. Chimney Repairs & Rebuilding
Chimneys are exposed to extreme weather and require specialist attention:
Chimney services:
Chimney stack repointing — rake out and repoint deteriorated mortar joints on chimney stacks
Chimney rebuilding — complete rebuild of collapsed or unsafe chimney stacks
Flaunching repairs — replace deteriorated cement flaunching (weathering around chimney pots)
Chimney pot replacement — supply and fit new chimney pots, cowls, and bird guards
Chimney removal — careful demolition of redundant chimneys (partial or complete)
Structural repairs — install stainless steel helical bars or reinforcement for cracked or leaning stacks
Why chimneys need specialist care:
Chimneys are exposed to wind, rain, frost, and flue gases on all sides
Cement flaunching deteriorates over time and needs replacement every 20–30 years
Leaning or cracked stacks can become dangerous and may need urgent attention
Listed buildings require consent for chimney work — we can advise on the process
6. Brick & Stone Cleaning
Careful cleaning can restore the appearance of dirty or stained brickwork and stonework:
Cleaning methods:
Dry brushing — remove loose dirt, moss, and vegetation
Low-pressure water washing — gentle cleaning for light soiling
Steam cleaning — effective for heavy soiling without harsh chemicals
Chemical cleaning — specialist masonry cleaners for stubborn stains (used with caution on historic fabric)
Lichen and moss removal — treat and remove biological growth from stone and brick
Important: Never use high-pressure jet washing on brickwork or stonework — it damages mortar joints and can force water into the wall, causing damp problems.
Lime Mortar vs. Cement Mortar — Which Does Your Property Need?
Choosing the right mortar is critical — using the wrong type can cause serious, irreversible damage to your brickwork or stonework:
Lime Mortar (For Period Properties)
Use lime mortar if your property:
Was built before 1919 (pre-1920)
Has solid walls (no cavity)
Uses soft, handmade bricks or natural stone
Is a listed building or in a conservation area
Shows signs of moisture trapped by previous cement pointing (spalling bricks, damp patches)
Why lime mortar:
Breathable — allows moisture vapour to pass through, preventing trapped damp
Flexible — accommodates slight movement without cracking (unlike rigid cement)
Self-healing — small cracks can "autogenous heal" as lime re-carbonates
Compatible — softer than historic bricks, so it doesn't cause them to spall or crumble
Reversible — can be removed and replaced without damaging historic fabric
Types of lime mortar:
NHL 3.5 (Naturally Hydraulic Lime) — medium strength, suitable for most repointing and general brickwork
NHL 5 — higher strength, for exposed areas, copings, chimneys, and below-DPC
Non-hydraulic lime (lime putty) — pure lime, slowest set, most breathable — used for highest-spec heritage work
Cost: £60–£90 per m² for repointing (about £10–£20/m² more than cement, but essential for period properties)
Cement Mortar (For Modern Properties)
Use cement mortar if your property:
Was built from the 1930s onward
Has cavity walls (two leaves with a gap between)
Uses hard, machine-made bricks (Flettons, engineering bricks)
Is a modern build with standard brickwork
Why cement mortar:
Strong and rigid — suitable for modern cavity-wall construction designed for it
Fast-setting — sets within hours, reaches full strength in 28 daysbernardandrewsroofing
Low permeability — sheds water effectively on modern brickwork
Cost-effective — cheaper and faster than lime mortar
Typical mix: 1 part cement : 1 part hydrated lime : 6 parts sharp sand (1:1:6) for general brickwork
Cost: £40–£70 per m² for repointing
The Golden Rule
Never use cement mortar on a period property — it's too hard and impermeable, trapping moisture inside the wall. This causes bricks or stone to spall, crumble, and decay. Lime mortar is the only appropriate choice for pre-1919 buildings.
How to tell what mortar you have:
Scratch test: Press a coin, nail, or screwdriver into the mortar. If it scratches easily and crumbles to sand = lime mortar. If it's very hard and barely marks = cement
Visual test: Lime mortar is typically cream, buff, or pale grey with visible aggregate (sand, shell fragments, coal clinker). Cement mortar is usually darker grey and more uniform
Age test: Built before 1919? Assume lime unless proven otherwise. Built from 1930s onward with cavity walls? Usually cement
Not sure? We can identify your existing mortar and recommend the correct type for repointing or repairs.
When You Need Bricklaying or Stonework Services
You'll benefit from professional brickwork or stonework if:
✅ Mortar is deteriorating — crumbling, falling out, or can be scraped away easily
✅ Bricks or stone are damaged — spalling, cracking, or crumbling due to frost or trapped moisture
✅ Damp problems — water penetration through walls, especially after rain
✅ Chimney issues — leaning stack, damaged flaunching, loose pots, or collapsed sections
✅ You're building an extension — need quality brickwork to match existing property
✅ Garden wall needed — new boundary wall, retaining wall, or decorative feature
✅ Period property maintenance — lime mortar repointing or stone repairs on pre-1919 buildings
✅ Listed building work — require specialist knowledge and conservation-approved materials
Not sure what your property needs? We offer free site surveys — we'll assess your brickwork or stonework, identify issues, and recommend the best solution (repointing, repairs, or replacement).
Why Choose Faber Building for Bricklaying & Stonework?
🏠 Local Cotswolds specialists — we understand the area, property types, and conservation requirements
🔧 Fully insured — £5 million public liability cover for your protection
⭐ Correct mortar specification — lime for period properties, cement for modern — we know the difference and why it matters
⏱️ Transparent pricing — free quotes within 24 hours, clear breakdowns, no surprises
🧹 Leave it better than we found it — protected surrounding areas, clean work zones, all waste removed
💬 Honest advice — we'll tell you what work is actually needed, not upsell unnecessary repointing or repairs
🛠️ Skilled craftsmanship — bricklaying and stonemasonry are specialist trades — we take pride in work that lasts decades
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does repointing last?
Properly executed repointing should last 50+ years for cement mortar and 30–50 years for lime mortar (lime is softer and may need more frequent maintenance, but it protects the brickwork or stonework). The key is using the correct mortar type and proper application technique.bestbuilders.co
Do I need scaffolding for repointing?
For anything above ground floor level, yes — scaffolding is essential for safe, quality repointing. Ladders are not suitable for repointing work as you need both hands free and stable access. Scaffolding costs £700–£2,000 depending on property size and access.bestbuilders.co
Can you repoint just one wall or does it need to be the whole house?
You can repoint individual walls or sections — there's no requirement to do the whole property. However, if one wall is deteriorating, others may follow soon after. We can prioritise based on urgency and budget (e.g., repoint the most exposed south/west-facing walls first) .
How long does repointing take?
A typical semi-detached house takes 3–5 days for a two-person team, including rake-out, repointing, and clean-up. Larger properties or complex stonework may take 1–2 weeks. Weather affects timelines — we can't work in freezing conditions or heavy rain.bestbuilders.co
What's the difference between weathered, flush, and bucket handle pointing?
These are different joint finishes that affect appearance and weather resistance :
Weathered (struck): Mortar is angled so the top edge is recessed — sheds water well, traditional appearance
Flush: Mortar is level with the brick face — modern, clean look
Bucket handle (rounded): Mortar is concave — most common, good weather resistance, traditional
Raked: Mortar is recessed 5–10mm — decorative, but less weather-resistant
We match the existing finish on your property unless you want to change it.
Do you work on listed buildings?
Yes — we have experience with listed buildings and conservation areas. We understand the need for:
Listed Building Consent before work starts
Appropriate lime mortars (NHL 3.5 or NHL 5)
Minimal intervention and maximum retention of original fabric
Conservation-accredited materials and methods
We can advise on the consent process and work with conservation officers if required.
Can you match existing mortar colour?
Yes — we can match both colour and texture of existing mortar. This involves:
Analysing the existing mortar (lime or cement, sand type and colour)
Sourcing appropriate sand (local Cotswold sand, sharp sand, or specialised colours)
Mixing trial batches to get an exact match
Testing on a small area before full application
Perfect matching is important for aesthetic consistency, especially on visible elevations .
How soon can I paint or render after repointing?
Cement mortar: Wait at least 28 days for full curing before painting or renderingbernardandrewsroofing
Lime mortar: Wait at least 3–4 weeks (longer in cold or damp weather) — lime cures by absorbing CO₂ from the air, which takes time
Painting or rendering too soon traps moisture and prevents proper curing, leading to failure.
Do you offer labour-only bricklaying?
Yes — if you've already purchased bricks, stone, or mortar, we can provide labour-only installation or repointing. Just let us know during the quote stage. Note: we can't guarantee materials you supply yourself, and we recommend using our supply-and-fit service for best results and warranty coverage.nearmetrades
Ready to Restore or Build Your Brickwork & Stonework?
Get a free, no-obligation quote for bricklaying and stonework in the Cotswolds, Gloucester, Chipping Norton, or Cirencester area.
📞 Call or text us today — we'll provide a fair quote within 24 hours and arrange a site visit to discuss your requirements.
Local Hands. Local Stone. Local Pride.